Born and raised in the Mission district of San Francisco, I was introduced to the wonders of nature before I could walk. My parents — semi professional windsurfers and outdoor enthusiasts — brought me everywhere. As an infant, I was in a backpack on hikes and on the back of my mom’s bicycle on coastal rides. They took me on their adventure trips in the Sierras, on the wild California coast, and abroad. By the time I was five I’d been to Canada, Mexico, Australia and several Caribbean islands, places that most people don’t get to visit in their entire lives. As a toddler, I scrambled over crags at Donner Pass and over rocky shores accessible only at low tide. I loved watching wildlife and enjoying the beauty of undeveloped land. My parents taught me to ski at age three. At six, I taught myself to snowboard on an oversize board and Sorrels – back then the sport was so new that child-sized equipment was unavailable. I became fond of being high off the ground, flying through the air over table-top jumps in Tahoe freestyle parks and even entered competitions – grommet division. At seven, I fell in love with Roller hockey. I played center on a championship team and was a complete ‘rink’ rat, spending every minute I could on my skates.
Then I discovered climbing. I first set foot in Mission Cliffs at age eight. Mission cliffs was and still is one of the premier climbing gyms in the country and happens to be only Four blocks from my home. We stopped in there out of curiosity on my way home from hockey practice. I was instantly hooked. To me climbing made perfect sense. I got my first pair of climbing shoes (5.10 Diamonds — woman’s shoes), and harness (Petzl Hirundos, pink). Soon afterward, climbing eclipsed everything else and Mission Cliffs became my second home. I still snowboarded, but my hockey skates got dusty and were forgotten.
At the gym I met some amazing people who had a profound effect on me and I was very lucky to meet climbers willing to take a snotty but enthusiastic little kid on outdoor climbing trips to places like Pinnacles, Mickey’s Beach, Bishop, Owens River Gorge, Red Rocks, and Mt. Charleston. Those people I am forever indebted to. Since climbing is still such a small community I have gotten to climb and become friends with people who inspired me and were my heroes at one time and the friends who took me on those early climbing trip became my heroes. One spring, I had the opportunity to fly to Bend, Oregon, and stay and climb with Scott Franklin who gave me my first clothing sponsor.
At twelve I began to compete. The junior climbing circuit was a terrific way for young climbers to improve their climbing and meet great people who push each other to improve. From hockey and snowboarding I’d already become used to competition, and felt comfortable performing under pressure in front of an audience. I was undefeated junior national and international champion four years in a row, then moved on to adult comps. Since then I have been on the U.S. climbing team every year, placing top three in almost every comp I’ve entered.
During school breaks I traveled all over the US to climb in comps and go to some amazing crags. I red-pointed my first 5.13 at age twelve, and my first 5.14 at age thirteen (which was subsequently down-graded to 5.13d.) The summer after I turned 14, I traveled to Europe and climbed at Ceuse for the first time. In Amsterdam I competed in my first junior world championship and placed second. (A disappointment — I was in first going into the finals and expected to win, but in a momentary lapse in concentration I missed a key hold and fell one hold below the winner.) Since then I have been to Europe five times in total and have re-visited Ceuse three times.
During trips to Squamish and Bishop, I fell in love with bouldering. I moved to Las Vegas for my senior year of high school. I established three of Red Rocks’ hardest and highest boulders during that year. My dedication for climbing fluctuated a bit through high school, but since I graduated I have dedicated myself anew to the sport. It now has taken over my life and become my true passion. In the last few years I have taken my climbing to ever-higher levels in the disciplines of sport climbing and bouldering. I have fulfilled many long-term goals of mine: tie or beat Sharma in a comp (not really), climb V14 and on-sight 5.14, and climb the enigmatic Realization. My goals are to keep raising the bar for hard climbing, podium at a world cup, become a better surfer, live a eco-friendly life, go to college, cherish my family, friends, and animals, keep traveling, and enjoy new experiences
Proudest Climbing Achievements
Major Competitions
1st Mammut Sendfest, Salt Lake City, 2006
Junior National Champion 1998-2001 (age 12-16)
Junior Internat’l Champion 1998-2001 (age 12-16)
Silver Medalist, Youth World Championships; Amsterdam, Nederlands, 2000
1st Jr Subaru Gorge Games; Hood River, Or, 2000
4th PCA (Pro Climbers Ass’n) Salt Lake City, 2002
2nd USCCA National Championships; Miami, 2003
2nd PCA Championships, Boulder, Co., 2004
1st overall PCA ranking 2004
1st overall ABS ranking 2004
1st ABS Nationals; Sacramento, CA (2004)
2nd North American Bouldering Champships, Mexico City, 2005
1st American (2nd overall), US Climbing National Championships; San Francisco, 2005
2nd ABS Nationals, Berkeley, Ca 2005
2nd Dyno, 2006 Teva Mountain Games, Vail, Co
1st Speed Bouldering, 2005 Teva Mountain Games
3rd Bouldering, 2005 Teva Mountain Games
18th UIAA Bouldering World Champ’ships; Munich, 2005
2nd HP40 Triple Crown; Horse Pens, Al, 2005
2nd ABS Nationals; Boulder, CO, 2006
United States Climbing Team Member, 1998-present
Major Sport Climbing Achievements
Over 200 5.13/14 redpoints, including:
Realization, 9a+/5.15a, Ceuse, France
Necessary Evil, 5.14c, VRG, Arizona
Let the Love Die, 5.14b (first ascent), Black and Tan, Utah
Los Borrachos De Mascun, 8c+/9a/5.14c-d, Rodellar, Spain
Bah Bah Black Sheep/ Chronique De La Haine, both 8c/5.14b, (both 1 day asc), Ceuse, FR
Wall of Glass Extension, 5.14c (first ascent), Mt. Clark, California
An Inconvienent Roof (Deep Water Solo), 5.13d (first ascent), Cala Sanau, Mallorca, Spain
Just Do It, 5.14b/c, Smith Rock, Or
Omaha Beach, Transworld Depravity, Both 5.14a (both 2nd try), Red River Gorge, Ky
Lungfish, 5.14b (4th try), 7pm Show, 5.14a, Zulu 5.14a (age 16), Rifle, Co
Der Limites, 8c/5.14b (2nd try), Ceuse, France
Fears of Ixcatan, 5.13d/14a (1st ascent), Ixcatan, Mexico
The Beast, 5.13a (age 12), Rifle
Soul Train, 5.13d (prev. 5.14a, age 13), Mt Charleston, Nv
Jail Bait, 5.13c (age 14), Jailhouse, Ca
Closing Down, 5.14a (age 15), Mt. Charleston, Nv
Surf Safari, 5.13d (2nd try, age 15), Mickey’s Beach, Ca
Over 100 5.13/14 onsights and flashes, including:
Iron Man, 5.14a/b onsight, Rodellar, Spain
Pequena Estrella/ Philipe Cuisinere, both 5.14a onsight, Rodellar, Spain
O Draconian Devil, 5.13d/14a, Kalymnos, Greece
Rendez Vous avec le Platon, 5.13d, Kalymnos, Greece
Captain Fantastic, 5.13c, VRG, Arizona
Loscot and 2 smoking barrels, 5.13c, El Diable, Mallorca, Spain
Rivera 5.13d, Rumney, NH
Rocket Man, 5.13d, Rumney, NH
Gigolo, 8a+/5.13c onsight, Siurana, Spain
Black Gold, 5.13c onsight), Red River Gorge, Ky
America’s Most Wanted, 5.13c, Robbers’ Roost, Nv
Spray-A-Thon, 5.13c, Rifle
Carte Blanche, 8a/5.13b (onsight age 14), Ceuse, France
Shoot’em Up 5.13a (age 13), Maple Canyon, Ut
Bouldering Achievements
Over 75 V8-V14 boulder problems, including:
Midnight Lightning, V8 (age 15), Yosemite, Ca
Red Rum Sit, V10 (flash), Happy Boulders, Ca
Big Joe, V10 (onsight), Joe’s Valley, Utah
Full Service, V10 (flash), Hueco Tanks, Tx
El Chupacabra, V11 (flash), Hueco Tanks
Wet Dream, V12/13r (1st ascent), Red Rocks, Nv
Clockwork Orange, V12r (1st ascent), Red Rocks
Stand And Deliver, V12r (1st ascent), Red Rocks
This Side of Paradise, V10r/x (2nd ascent), Buttermilks
Iron Resolution, V13/14r (2nd ascent), Joshua Tree, Ca
Call 911, V10r (2nd ascent), Hueco Tanks
Slashface, V14, Hueco Tanks, Evangalion V13r (2nd ascent), Hueco Tanks (same day)
Mandala, V12, Buttermilks
Buttermilker, V13, Buttermilks, Ca
Evilution, V12 r/x (2nd ascent), Buttermilks, Ca
Spectre, V13/14 (one shoe!) Buttermilks, Ca
Yabo Roof, V12 (2nd ascent) Yosemite, Ca
Goldfish Trombone, V14 Happy Boulders, Ca
The Beautiful and the Damned, V13x, Buttermilks, Ca
Esperanza, V14, Hueco Tanks Tx
Full Throttle, Crown of Aragorn, V13 (same day) Hueco Tanks, Tx
King Lion, V13r (one day ascent), Sam’s Throne, Arkansas
Circadian Rhythm, V13 (one hour ascent), Kingpin, V11/12 (flash, Same day), Poudre Canyon, Co
Bully, V11, Triple Threat Arete, V10 (both flashed), Birds Nest, V11r (same day), Lower Cottonwood Canyon, Ut
Eclipse, V12/13 (2nd ascent), Prime Rib, V10, Red Letter Day, V10 (same day) LCC, Utah
Dominated, V13, Camp 4, Yosemite Valley, Ca
Direction, V13, Buttermilks, Ca
That is SICK!! and of course the tights are the quintessence of dopeness.
Ethan, where is the “fly off” in our photos man? next time for sure!
The Fly Off! hahaha Awesome!
Thanks for uploading the vid. Made me laugh miss seeing those tights
first time i’ve seen your blog, man. its cool to hear what’s going on in that head of yours, cuz sometimes i do worry that i hear the wind whistling thru it…
i’m joking of course. anyways, cheer up on the climbing. i’ll take spanish with you if you want to do night school at city or something. also, i have the urge to either throw a cat or spin a baby now. also also, i forgot about that sweatshirt. nice.
Good luck working on getting back in your old shape Ethan! You know where to find me if you need help getting stronger.
Since When in Throwing babies funny?
Good get some news man. I’m glad you’re still alive! At least it sounds like your shoulder is going in the right direction now: that’s nice. Congrats on the first semester at city! Keep the positive attitude, and always good to see some new posts from you.
Nice to finally see an update!v
Oh my gosh poor cat..
Hope you’re back on hard climbing by end of 09? And you’ve to check out german rock
Can you climb again soon. please?
Depends on what you mean by soon… it’ll be at least a couple more months… sorry. Believe me, I want to!
What skool you taking classes at Ethan? I took Anthro 2 at the City College of SF. One of those Anthro teachers I wouldn’t recommend.
Eliot, that’s funny because Antro 2 is the class I’m taking! It’s the pre-history/archeology anthro class with Matthew Kennedy. He seems like a pretty cool professor. Pretty gay too, not that it makes any difference, but he dresses very smartly and seems really on top of his stuff. Very engaging and funny and interesting to listen too, so I doubt it’s the same prof you had.
Yeah that’s not the same professor I took, which is a good thing. Anthro is super interesting and overall I enjoyed the City College and thought the professors were great. Did you get to add all the classes you wanted?
AGHHHH. ETHAN. do i get the shoulder surgery? do i not? do i get it? no? yes. no. yes. no. fuck. this is my second dislocation in 5 years.
–miserable at home.
Susanica, nooooo! I mean, maybe. As in, maybe get the surgery. Can you still climb? I say if you can hang from the arm then you might as well hold off. That sucks though! I’m sorry, I feel your pain. Mine never dislocated or subluxed or anything, but I still ended up going under the knife… it’s a tough decision. Call me if you want to commiserate.
Eliot, I did end up adding all the classes I wanted. I’m in the prehistory/archeology anthro class, the argumentation and debate class, oceanography 1 and beginning piano… all my professors seem pretty cool, especially the anthro prof, but there are definitely some whack teachers at ccsf. For instance my summer english 96 prof Jessica Nelson… I didn’t much enjoy her teaching, but hey, I still got a B so it wasn’t the end of the world. Hopefully I’ll have a story about her up here shortly.
yo! you’re in school–so ambitious, good work buddy! so how does anyone get ahold of you anymore? i just got back to the states and wanted to see you while i’m here. let’s play!!!
Dude – check this out: http://lifehacker.com/5348837/the-climbing+wall-fortress
lets build one in my backyard!
Hey stranger..when are you gonna show your face around the Oakland gym again? We should climb/train if you are able (not sure how the injury is…)
Hi! I was surfing and found your blog post… nice! I love your blog.
Cheers! Sandra. R.
Yo -
Totally relate, man. I had an anterior labral repair this past december – took it very slowly coming back and have been exact on course with the physical therapy stuff – static, smooth movement for climbing and staying away from steep stuff (and I mean, staying away from straight roof climbing, overhanging to 30 degrees feels ok) and its been getting stronger at a pretty rapid rate. Not gonna lie; even at this point there are still twinges and the range of motion doesn’t match the left, but I can totally see coming back very strong over a long period of time.
I do agree entirely with some of the things you’ve said. When I jacked mine, I had the same attitude of “it’s only climbing” and then realized that my life, my job, my relationship, and my future plans for life in general all revolved around climbing. Now, nine months post-op and climbing again, I feel like I have way more perspective on what it means to be a climber. Blessing in disguise + hella pain, but better person because of it.
Basically saying good luck, good to hear you are handling it well. Take your time, sure you’ll come back beastly.
Yo dude, I heard your comin to town, gimme a shout, I’ll show ya around
Wow i just wanted to drop a line quickly and say that i know EXACTLY what your going thru Ethan altho my injury hit me on the climb u
Ive seen ur name thrown around in the rag mags climbing v12’s a shiz and was on my way up, i thought, of being a dirt bag climber living the chalky life out of the back of my expidition when I tore my glenoid labrum from the 2 oclock to the 5 o clock position… Im still dealing with this injury currently and had a corticoid steriod shot yesterday ( 9/23/09, funny this is i thought i would be sending v6-7 by my 23rd birthday which is tomorrow…hahah life
I always thought the “pro’s” so to say never got hurt… sharma ever tore a shoulder ?
I just wanted you to know that even us v3′ers who have dreams of sending back, making it to those dosage films get hurt. Im in the midst of wanting to scream bc all i want to do is climb… Surgery is not an option for myself at this point, still have 6-8more weeks of PT but i wanted to share with you something another climber told me
Dont stop…
Like you said, your a Lifer, I believe myself to be one to, damn this addicition it is bitter sweet
Find those climbs that fullfil you physically and mentally and you will find that spiritual fullfillment
Good Luck mate
see u on a v4 hopefully :O)
I am Patxi Usobiaga, how can i contact you?
How’s the shoulder Ethan? You rehabbing yet or just studying archaeology? I wish you the best getting back after it.
Nice shout-out to Mike, woot-woot!!
I especially like the photo of the “stop peeing on my house” sign.
Have you ever thought of adding additional videos to your blog posts to keep the viewers more hooked? I just read through the whole page and it was very good but since I learn visually, I find videos to be more helpful. I enjoy what you guys are always coming up with. Keep up the great work. I will return to your site daily for some of the latest post.
Once you’re totally healed, are you planning to go back out to Clark Mtn.?
Heck yes. Very psyched to go back there.
Thanks for showing an interest in the blog Shon! I do agree with you- the more pics and videos the better! Obviously the site is still a work in progress so it’s a bit on the rough side, but I’m in the middle of editing a little video from my recent trip to Red Rocks and I’ll include a nice gallery of pics when I post the video so look out for all that! I’m also getting some good pics and vids out here in Bishop this weekend which I’ll be editing and throwing on the site soon enough!
Nice new layout for your site
Congrats on the mag cover!…and nice work with the classes
That’s cool that your shoulder’s gettin better and your gettin back on the rock!
thought you might enjoy this: http://vimeo.com/9031726
Cool technique, great shot. Wasn’t it Galen Rowell who shot Kauk on Endless Bummer?
Thanks Odub! Good catch… Ansel died in ‘84! RIP…
So awesome that you’re back!!
Nice one dood! Psyched to see the climbing update!
Sick Ethan!!! Congrats on EVilution Direct, psyched!!!
Sooo nice !!! You’re back ! Yeah ! Keep up the good work man
nice ethan!!! on the comeback…so siked to hear youre feeling healthy. see ya in red rock homes.
Nice job Ethan! Cool trip report … I hope we get to climb somewhere cool soon …
Yeah bobby!!!!!! psyched to see you back at it! Give’r hell!!